Everything You Need To Know About Lab-Grown Diamonds
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Lab-grown diamonds continue to hold in market share and lower in price, tempting many seeking “their diamond” to wonder what the difference is between these newcomers and traditional, mined diamonds. As diamond experts, we have worked hard to keep pace with this trend, following our supply chains and becoming intimately familiar with the benefits and drawbacks of its various processes.
Here are some facts and our impressions to help guide your jewelry purchasing goals.
The primary methods of producing lab-grown diamonds are HPHT (High Temperature and High Pressure) and CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition).
The first, HPHT, seeks to mimic the pressure and temperature conditions under which diamonds form in the earth’s mantle. This method is the most common means of producing lab-grown diamonds as it is the fastest, typically creating a one-carat diamond in about 14 days.
A word of caution, HPHT diamond production can be sped up with the inclusion of boron in the growth process. While boron is known to give diamonds a blueish tone, many budget manufacturers continue to use it to increase their manufacturing yield and generate more revenue. These diamonds should be avoided.
A good way to ensure high quality is to request to see the grading “notes” from a highly regarded laboratory (GIA or AGS). If present, the report will note these blueish undertones.
The second, CVD, or Chemical Vapor Deposition, is a method of producing diamonds by placing a diamond “seed” in a chamber, filling the chamber with a gas mixture of carbon and hydrogen, and running an electrical charge through the mixture to create a plasma that allows the carbon to bind. This method is less cost-effective than HPHT and is thus less utilized by manufacturers.
The CVD method can produce a one-carat diamond in approximately 30 days. However, for the discerning buyer, CVD-produced diamonds guarantee no boron injection, unlike HPHT, thus reducing the risk of blueish tints in the diamonds.
Much has been made of lab-grown diamonds’ ethical value, most of it by the manufacturers or vendors of this new product. This marketing, branded as research, takes seeds of truth and sows in conjecture, history, and fear. With that in mind, let’s take a minute to compare the relative merits of diamond sources with a critical eye.
There is no doubt that extraction industries are, and continue to be, dangerous for many countries around the world, their wealth destabilizing governments and inciting violence amongst those who seek to control their riches. Historically, bad actors have sometimes utilized diamond mines, most notably in Sierra Leone in the 1990s. All of this is true, and every diamond miner, manufacturer, vendor, and consumer bears the responsibility to ensure that their choices do not support such actions.
However, it is also true that the modern diamond market is nothing like that of the 1990s. For example, Russia and Canada now make up over 50% of the diamond mining market, ranking 1st and 3rd in the world, respectively. Further, diamond industry reforms, including the Kimberly Process, represent a concerted effort from all players to remove bad actors and ensure that the fruits of a nation’s diamond wealth benefit its citizens, particularly those who live near or work at the mining sites. In fact, an independent study revealed that employment at a diamond mine results in an expected salary 66% greater than the national average and contributed greatly to the living standards of nearby communities through improved roads, schools, and clean water.
Finally, consumers are more educated than ever, and in turn, retailers are challenging their providers to verify that their diamonds were sourced ethically. All in all, while not perfect, the mined diamond industry has markedly improved its sourcing strategies, increasing the residual wealth and living conditions in diamond-rich countries.
The lab-grown industry, of course, does not encounter the same sourcing issues as mined diamonds. That is not to say, however, that there is not a cost. Producing lab-grown diamonds, whether through HPHT or CVD methods, is incredibly energy intensive, and that energy is generally not generated in an ecologically sustainable manner.
For example, to produce one carat of diamonds through HPHT, a manufacturer must use 225 kWh of energy. If manufactured in India, which generates ~50% of its energy through fossil fuels, that means the production of 407 lbs. of CO2 emissions, the equivalent of burning 204 lbs. of coal. For the ethical consumer, this must also be a serious consideration.
In the end, the answer is unclear. While we do not pretend to know everything, we do know this: beware of slick marketing and “easy” answers. Conscious buying is a good thing, and you should demand the most from where you choose to buy your diamonds, but don’t be waylaid by poorly constructed and one-sided marketing claims.
The general industry consensus is that lab-grown diamonds will continue to devalue as production methods improve and manufacturing yield increases. This stands in contrast to natural diamonds, which continue to appreciate despite growing lab-grown market share. Unfortunately for lab-grown diamonds, rarity continues to be the primary driver of diamond value. The flood of lab-grown manufacturers, and the ubiquity of the product is removing the last vestiges of value in a resale market death spiral.
It is our opinion that we will continue to see lab-grown diamonds in the market, but they will fade away, providing a solution for the diamond seeker who prizes size and price above all else. For the rest of us, mined diamonds will continue to represent the same statement of romance, rarity, and value that they always have.
Dear reader, I cannot tell you if a lab-grown diamond is right for you, but I can tell you that your reaction to the handbag analogy will tell you which side of the fence you ought to land. For some, functionality and price are the defining features of value, and in that case, I say great! Buy the biggest lab-grown you can get your hands on and enjoy!
But if you find yourself wondering, even a little, if you would ever be proud to give or wear something that isn’t truly rare and special, then a lab-grown is certainly not for you. Our instincts reveal our convictions, and straying from your convictions is the only sure way to guarantee future regret.
In a world that prioritizes form over substance and external impression over internal satisfaction, the unique choice is not getting or giving the same tired diamond that meets society’s size expectations. I say that not as a thrust at those who have opted for the former, but instead as a note to have the courage to those who know their convictions but are facing external pressure. Have hope; the race belongs not to the fastest but to those who do the work right!
Here are some facts and our impressions to help guide your jewelry purchasing goals.
Where Do Lab-Grown Diamonds Come From?
The vast majority of lab-grown diamonds are manufactured in China and India, where they are produced at scale. This is done to reduce cost, outsourcing energy demand and labor costs while benefiting from collocation with the world’s highest density of diamond cutters. Currently, ~42% of the world’s lab-grown diamonds are produced in China and ~16% in India.
How are Lab-Grown Diamonds Made?
The primary methods of producing lab-grown diamonds are HPHT (High Temperature and High Pressure) and CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition).The first, HPHT, seeks to mimic the pressure and temperature conditions under which diamonds form in the earth’s mantle. This method is the most common means of producing lab-grown diamonds as it is the fastest, typically creating a one-carat diamond in about 14 days.
A word of caution, HPHT diamond production can be sped up with the inclusion of boron in the growth process. While boron is known to give diamonds a blueish tone, many budget manufacturers continue to use it to increase their manufacturing yield and generate more revenue. These diamonds should be avoided.
A good way to ensure high quality is to request to see the grading “notes” from a highly regarded laboratory (GIA or AGS). If present, the report will note these blueish undertones.
The second, CVD, or Chemical Vapor Deposition, is a method of producing diamonds by placing a diamond “seed” in a chamber, filling the chamber with a gas mixture of carbon and hydrogen, and running an electrical charge through the mixture to create a plasma that allows the carbon to bind. This method is less cost-effective than HPHT and is thus less utilized by manufacturers.
The CVD method can produce a one-carat diamond in approximately 30 days. However, for the discerning buyer, CVD-produced diamonds guarantee no boron injection, unlike HPHT, thus reducing the risk of blueish tints in the diamonds.
Are Lab-Grown Diamonds More Ethical?
Much has been made of lab-grown diamonds’ ethical value, most of it by the manufacturers or vendors of this new product. This marketing, branded as research, takes seeds of truth and sows in conjecture, history, and fear. With that in mind, let’s take a minute to compare the relative merits of diamond sources with a critical eye.There is no doubt that extraction industries are, and continue to be, dangerous for many countries around the world, their wealth destabilizing governments and inciting violence amongst those who seek to control their riches. Historically, bad actors have sometimes utilized diamond mines, most notably in Sierra Leone in the 1990s. All of this is true, and every diamond miner, manufacturer, vendor, and consumer bears the responsibility to ensure that their choices do not support such actions.
However, it is also true that the modern diamond market is nothing like that of the 1990s. For example, Russia and Canada now make up over 50% of the diamond mining market, ranking 1st and 3rd in the world, respectively. Further, diamond industry reforms, including the Kimberly Process, represent a concerted effort from all players to remove bad actors and ensure that the fruits of a nation’s diamond wealth benefit its citizens, particularly those who live near or work at the mining sites. In fact, an independent study revealed that employment at a diamond mine results in an expected salary 66% greater than the national average and contributed greatly to the living standards of nearby communities through improved roads, schools, and clean water.
Finally, consumers are more educated than ever, and in turn, retailers are challenging their providers to verify that their diamonds were sourced ethically. All in all, while not perfect, the mined diamond industry has markedly improved its sourcing strategies, increasing the residual wealth and living conditions in diamond-rich countries.
The lab-grown industry, of course, does not encounter the same sourcing issues as mined diamonds. That is not to say, however, that there is not a cost. Producing lab-grown diamonds, whether through HPHT or CVD methods, is incredibly energy intensive, and that energy is generally not generated in an ecologically sustainable manner.
For example, to produce one carat of diamonds through HPHT, a manufacturer must use 225 kWh of energy. If manufactured in India, which generates ~50% of its energy through fossil fuels, that means the production of 407 lbs. of CO2 emissions, the equivalent of burning 204 lbs. of coal. For the ethical consumer, this must also be a serious consideration.
In the end, the answer is unclear. While we do not pretend to know everything, we do know this: beware of slick marketing and “easy” answers. Conscious buying is a good thing, and you should demand the most from where you choose to buy your diamonds, but don’t be waylaid by poorly constructed and one-sided marketing claims.
What is the Future of Lab-Grown Diamonds?
The general industry consensus is that lab-grown diamonds will continue to devalue as production methods improve and manufacturing yield increases. This stands in contrast to natural diamonds, which continue to appreciate despite growing lab-grown market share. Unfortunately for lab-grown diamonds, rarity continues to be the primary driver of diamond value. The flood of lab-grown manufacturers, and the ubiquity of the product is removing the last vestiges of value in a resale market death spiral. It is our opinion that we will continue to see lab-grown diamonds in the market, but they will fade away, providing a solution for the diamond seeker who prizes size and price above all else. For the rest of us, mined diamonds will continue to represent the same statement of romance, rarity, and value that they always have.
Is a Lab-Grown Diamond Right for Me?
Lab-grown diamonds are diamonds, much as that knockoff Louis Vuitton handbag your cousin brought back from her last vacation is a real Louis Vuitton. It’s made of the same base material, stitched the same way, and appears to everyone on the street as the real thing, so it is a handbag. But is it a Louis Vuitton?Dear reader, I cannot tell you if a lab-grown diamond is right for you, but I can tell you that your reaction to the handbag analogy will tell you which side of the fence you ought to land. For some, functionality and price are the defining features of value, and in that case, I say great! Buy the biggest lab-grown you can get your hands on and enjoy!
But if you find yourself wondering, even a little, if you would ever be proud to give or wear something that isn’t truly rare and special, then a lab-grown is certainly not for you. Our instincts reveal our convictions, and straying from your convictions is the only sure way to guarantee future regret.
In a world that prioritizes form over substance and external impression over internal satisfaction, the unique choice is not getting or giving the same tired diamond that meets society’s size expectations. I say that not as a thrust at those who have opted for the former, but instead as a note to have the courage to those who know their convictions but are facing external pressure. Have hope; the race belongs not to the fastest but to those who do the work right!
